In 2019, we continue on the same road and we try to improve a little?
There’s no ideal to reach, have perfect fitting, styling clothes, or a perfect organized and rigourous control of the faric stash, neither hundreds of hand made clothes 😀 Trying new things, be curious, reach out our comfort zone, think diffrently, share without pressure, enjoy the moments where we can create something
Two buying sessions (online) and five projects have been cut during the three first months of 2019.
- 1m50 of romanit knit was bought for a specific mission : a sweater Ottobre 5/2017 Handy pocket, same as the one sewn in December but for my mom and in eggplant color
- 9m50 of stretch linen, knit, viscose and cotton satin de coton to try a mini spring « collection »
- 8m20 has been cut, 7m30 sewn
- 1m50 for the pullover Handy Pocket in romanit
- 1m20 of stretch purple gabardine for a umpteenth pant test, failed test
- 2m of plaid woolen cloth, roman holidays souvenir, a cape
- 2m of orange knit jersey for a tee shirt
- 1m50 polyester? dark navy stretch for a skirt
More yards bought than sewn…
But the 9m50 bought have been bought thoughtfully and I didn’t think I could cut and finish the orange tee shirt this month 🙂
Castles in the air
It’s been a while that the idea of collection, capsule, mix and match and minimalism has been on my mind (Harmoniser sa garde robe ?!)
There is a lot on the internet to get inspired, a lot of how-to to make a plan or a todo list. I read, come back over and over on several sites and books :
- on youtube a fashion designer Justine Leconte
- capsules samples on the blog The Vivienne Files
- a facebook group of minimalism closet
- the dedicated forum for the contest « 2018 Wardrobe Contest: 6-in-6, Easy as 1-2-3 Rules » on Pattern review
- « sudoku capsules » on pinterest
- the samples « One suit case » on the Outfit Posts
- the Flamboyant Gamine article in the Kibbe series written by Doctor T Designs
- The silhouette part of the method wardrobe architect
- several books including the curated closet
- the ebook of sewuprising
I certainly forgot some links, the inspiration grew up, the more I read, with little adjustments
My tests have been chaotic, I like tidy mess, organized with room for surprises :p There is no ready to go method which works for everyone, every place/season and the things we like at one time. I’ve tested pic collage, excel files, bujo, pinterest boards, and google slides (online powerpoint), I still use the google slides for now
I enjoyed create a few mini collections, more or less detailed
Groups: per season, it seems the easier, but spring and fall may merge and winter is so short here that it may need more reflexion before planning coats and wool suff
Weather variations: chilly spring with rains in march/april. warm spring with coffee on terrace, summer heat wave but also heat wave and work…. I’m senstive to cold + air conditionner work + south of France (hot summer) -> outfits must adapt all day long with layers
Number of clothes : 6, totally copied from the contest of pattern review (1-2-3). To have a shorter sewing todo list, I count that each collection should include at least 2 existing pieces of the closet.
- 1 layer: cardigan, jacket, (pullover)
- 2 bottoms: skirt, pant, short, leggings…
- 3 tops: tee shirt, blouses, shirts, etc.
For the warmer days, we can replace a bottom or a top with a dress, this formula gives between 6 and 12 outfits. There are capsules formulas more complete (11, 12 or even 33 pieces) but it’s impossible for me to imagine a cohersive set with so many pieces, for now at least
Colors, fabrics : more solids, patterns on the same level, if in one collection I use a patterned fabric for a pant, the tops and layers must be solids, the second bottom can be with patterns, it’s a tip so the mix and match is easier to do. I been struggling to find « my » neutrals, most samples are navy, black, white, cream, grey, I love colors, it’s difficult for me to imagine sewing several pieces in a solid navy for example… and according to the minimalist closet group on facebook, I need to wear more my colors which are autumn ones
Silhouettes, sewing patterns : According to the minimalist closet group on facebook and the kibbe method, identify and sew clothes types which are bette on my body but also the ones that i like even if it’s not recommended. By working with silhouettes, (as for the colors and patterns) it’s easier to mix and match if you have one silhouette in a collection, you’ll avoid having a puffy skirt and a oversize shirt, Meringue effect ^^
I started thinking in january for a winter capsule, 2 skirts, 1 top and 1 cardigan have to be sewn, but times goes by and the weather went warm, I switched on a spring capsule with one goal: include a sky blue slim pant I wear rarely, to wear it more often !
Chilly mornings (5°C) and hot for lunch time (18°C) For colors, i tried to add warm hues for the tops, it was not easy to find a good combo with the blue of the pant. And I have a lot of « cold » hues in my stash, that explains the 9m50 above 😀
For the two missing tops, here are the possibilities:
Kibbe level, the blazer may be a little too long, the skirt is slightly a-line, I need to get used to more fitted skirt, the tee is asymetrical, seems closed to the body on the magazine pic (spoiler: not so much in real life), the pant is slim. Except for the first one, the possible blouses are short and loose, by the pics on burda.
Ottobre – Handy Pocket (2nd time)
No pic, in eggplant romanit, it has details that make it a nice pattern, pockets on horizontal seam, but there is no complexity in the assembly and it is quick to make, juggling between the sewing machine and the serger
Patronnage Pantalon – Burda X Mayurama
A new attempt at self draft pant 😀 again. modify a burda pattern with a base pant from mayurama book. IT was easier to imagine the expected result with Burda used pattern. The mix is not good, it gives me a high waist and it is too tight, stading up is ok, but when I sat for a long time, it’s a no way.
I Am Patterns – Mimosa
I don’t buy a lot of independant brand patterns, because i don’t find the originals details of the burda designs, the price is also stopping me. Nevertheless, i didn’t found a cape or poncho pattern without front openings, on burda or the big 4, did not want to make pattern matching on the fabric found at Bassetti Tessuti in Roma. I was disapointed to see that the biggest pattern pieces were overlapped on the pattern paper. it’s a shame for the price, (16€) the other pieces are rectangles. I’m disapointed with the pattern, but I like the design and the final piece
Happy of the outcome, not happy of the pattern
Burda Style 01/2019 #113
This top has been sewn very quickly and without any difficulty. the left side is longer and makes pleats on its own, at hip level.
And this is it, I didn’t finished much on the « spring » capsule
I don’t think I will have enough time to sew the blazer with the red/orange stretch linen (bottom, right) before the weather gets warm, but the cape wasn’t included in the plan, so I guess I have a spring layer, after all ^^
Only the skirt is started and I’ve started a dress for the end of the year at the « house of young and culture » aka MJC (local association where there are sewing classes, among a lot of other stuff, dance, sports, chess, music, yoga…)
The sewing class theme for 2019 at the MJC is « a bit of crazy », not easy, especially when you want to use the stash. I will try to include it in the « summer » capsule below:
The skirt on the right is the 3G from Burda Easy 2013 Spring summer, this design has been made 5 times and the skirt in the pic has been worn a lot, it will be replaced by the same design with the 2 fabrics in the middle. Maybe I wil replace the two tank tops, if time and pattern are found, in viscose knit or tencel. And the bit of crazy : the asymetrical dress with a pattern mix: stripes and wax
And as it was not enough, I’m making a birthday gift for my niece, 3yo in may : a paola reina doll with a complete wardrobe, (this is not the doll on the pic, I use this one as a mannequin to test the patterns). Perfect project to use all the scraps but do not believe that these clothes are quicker to make, not at all!!! the hems and others finishing touches have to be done before the assembly, because it is so tiny, it’s not obvisous when you’re used to adult sewing 😀